Photos:
Heading out of Chiang Mai on Wednesday morning, we began a three day journey to Luang Prabang. It featured 6 different vehicles in two countries, spanning 53 hours and included three beds, both the best and worst showers of the trip, and some psychadelic mozzie nets.
First up was a minibus ride to Chiang Kong on the Thai/Laos border. We pulled into a very nice looking guest house complex with spacious AC rooms spread about a very pretty courtyard. Then we were sent to the back of the place to our much smaller sleeping quarters. It was our first shared bathroom of the trip, but the truth is it was just fine, and any discomfort was more than made up for by the most fantastic shower I've had in a long time (America included). Giant head, great pressure, hot water. The type of thing you really learn to appreciate. We also slept that night under very lacy, swirly mozzie nets which, when blown by the spinning fan in the room, gave the feel of being trapped inside a jellyfish. Quite cool, but only appreciated for about 80 seconds until we fell asleep.
Day two we boarded a bus to the river, a "ferry" across the border, a tuk-tuk to the pier, then the first of two slow boats that would take us down the Mekong. This two day trip is a highlight for many who trek though this part of the world. Given, there was absolutely gorgeous scenery. And it's a good chance to meet and chat with travelers from all over the world. Or at least all over the western world. I'm just not sure I see what all the fuss is about. Day one was quite nice. They spread us out over two boats, which was a relief because the "book" mentioned that the rides are often quite cramped. There were about 50 people on a boat meant for 70, which meant we had plenty of legroom (Adina and I also managed to be the first on the boat and snagged the comfy seats) and we were able to spread out and play some cards with some other people. It was a great game I had learned from some Brits last year in Peru, but could not remember the name or rules. It's called Shithead and it's a sort of combination of Asshole and Uno. Kinda. The day was a bit less fun than it could have been because it was a fast day so one of us was fasting and neither of us were drinking the copious amounts of beer that makes the journey more fun. That night we spent in a cheap ($3 for the room) guest house with a boring old rectangle net and a cold, muddy shower. But a stunning view of the river, so it's all good.
The next day we got up and headed down to the pier, expecting a second relaxing day on the river, full of chatting, cards, and this time some beer to help pass the time. Well, the boat is made for 70 people and we were about the 80th and 81st to get there. We tried convincing them to take the second boat. Then we tried getting the others who were coming to hold out for a while and demand a second boat. This planned mutiny seemed to be going well, as the crowd of people on the banks got close to 30. Unfortunately my first attempt at group rabble rousing turned into a bust when some of the group caved and got on, meaning others followed suit because "we don't want to be the ones without seats." Eventually we were two of about four people left on shore, at which point we had no choice. It turned out relatively fine, as a German guy we had met a couple of nights earlier had saved a seat for us anyway, and our slow boat buddy Esther (which is apparently a common name in Holland, even for non-Jews) got a comfy chair next to a friendly guy, too. Problem was we were at about 110 people (and the numbers grew along the trip as we picked up local Lao people at small villages along the river) in a boat made for 70, so all the seats (movable benches) were crammed together with as little leg room as possible. Once we got going the breeze cooled us off a bit, but it was nowhere near as enjoyable as the first day. We did chat with some more people (I got a job offer out of the day, but I'm pretty sure I don't want to teach in a middle school in Oakland) and played some Uno with weird German rules. We got to Luang Prabang in time to find our guest house and get ready for Shabbat.
That's where we'll pick up next time, kids.
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