The day began with an existential crisis. Actually, it began with Coco Krispies (we owe so much to Choice Hotels). But then, we walked out onto the street and nearly into oncoming traffic AGAIN, because we find ourselves in yet another country that drives on the wrong side of the road. But then it occurred to me - maybe we drive on the wrong side! I used to think it was Britain vs. the rest of the world on this one, but we've spent weeks in more places this summer that are afflicted with the same disease. If the car capital of the world chooses the left side to drive on, maybe it's the way to go. Then I remembered exactly who dropped the bomb on whom, so I guess to the victor go the spoils. We're right, they're strange. I know I feel better about myself.
Our first destination on the day was Shinjuku train station, the busiest in the world (according to Eyewitness Travel, which we believe simply because it is not Lonely Planet). We were sad to discover that the automated voice on the subway did not introduce it as the real crossroads of the universe, but we both informed every one on the train that they could, in fact, transfer here for everything. Voices on the subway aren't that new for us, but that is just the beginning. Everything here talks to you. The elevator tells you when the door is closing, the train doors warn you to step back, we even came across an alarmingly vigilant "Do Not Enter" sign. The station itself wasn't as busy as we would have expected because we luckily came a bit after rush hour, but the food court had some of the coolest desserts we've ever seen / been scolded at for photographing. I can't tell you if they were good or not, but they managed to make a cake look like a cup of fresh squeezed mango juice, complete with a straw and gelatin ice cubes. Genius.
After hunting down a Citibank (very tired of ATM fees) we strolled in the rain through one of the main business centers in town. We were politely told that no, we could not just sit for a while in the 52nd story restaurant atop the Grand Hyatt (as seen on Lost in Translation) without ordering a $65 brunch, but that's ok since the view was completely grayed out by clouds. We know because we went to the free observatory three blocks away and the view was, in fact, completely grayed out by clouds. We were satisfied just imagining what Mt. Fuji would look like in the distance.
As it turns out, Tokyo in the rain is less interesting than one might think. I don't know if it's because people can get whatever they need in the malls at the bottom (or top) of every office building and therefor stays indoors, or because this week is some sort of holiday (kind of like Easter, except more about death, less about rebirth), but we were just about the only suckers out there. Good thing the fine people of Comfort Inn lent us an umbrella in the morning. We wandered aimlessly until it stopped raining, then checked out a shrine and its surrounding park. We weren't overwhelmed by either one, but that might have been just rain related crankiness talking.
Tonight we paid $50 dollars to eat brown rice and seitan (any one in NY want to meat us for lunch at Kasbah on Friday (the typo was deliberate)), then walked around what turned out to be a bit of a Japanese teeny-bopper hangout. Cafes, bars, and Pachinko parlors with neon lights lined both sides of the street for an entire neighborhood. Major sensory overload. If some one can read that link and explain it to me, that'd be great. If any one can get me my 10 bucks back, that'd be even better.
Tomorrow is a busy day of Sumo wrestling (who thinks I can take them?), templing and museuming, and shopping for electronics and elaborately designed fake food. More on all that later (free internet in the lobby!!).
Goodnight!
The department stores are all impressive. The basement of each and every one of them has a food court of sorts. Most food places have a picture of what is in the food, as well. All soups in japan are fish-based. When there, head to the kimono floor, as well. Akibono is my all-time favorite sumo wrestler.
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